How to Move a Washing Machine — The Transit Bolt Guide

Why is the drum suspended in the first place?

An automatic washing machine has two drums: an outer fixed drum attached to the body that holds the water, and a perforated inner drum in which the laundry rotates. The inner drum is driven by a motor that spins it at up to 1,400 revolutions per minute during the spin cycle. At that speed any imbalance in how the laundry is distributed — which is inevitable — generates a substantial centrifugal force pushing the drum sideways. If the drum were rigidly fixed to the body, that force would transfer entirely into the machine, which would jump out of position and destroy its own components within weeks. The drum is therefore suspended on springs above and shock absorbers below that absorb this force and convert it into limited swing. That clever design is itself the weak point during transport: a suspended system engineered for controlled movement in a fixed location, exposed to violent random shaking in a moving truck.

What actually happens when it is moved unlocked

During transport without transit bolts, the inner drum shakes at its full weight — considerable, since it is metal and in many models carries a concrete counterweight — inside the body with every bump and vibration. The damage lands on three components. The upper springs may stretch permanently or come out of their seats, leaving the drum hanging out of true. The lower shock absorbers lose part of their damping capacity or their mountings break. And the drum bearing may be damaged by lateral loads it was never designed for, which is the worst outcome because replacing it requires stripping the entire machine at a cost approaching half the price of a new one. The difficulty is that none of this stops the machine working immediately; it runs a cycle or two almost normally, then the vibration and noise escalate progressively until they become unbearable.

Why removing the bolts matters as much as fitting them

This is a paradox many people fall into: they take trouble to find the transit bolts and fit them correctly, then forget to remove them after installing the machine at the new home. The result is the exact opposite of what was intended. The bolts immobilise the drum completely, so if the machine is run while they are still fitted, the drum has no room to swing and the full centrifugal force transfers into the machine's body. The result is violent shaking of the whole appliance, severe noise and direct strain on the mounting points and springs — the same damage the bolts were meant to prevent, and often worse. The rule is therefore: bolts in immediately before the move, bolts out immediately before first use, and never left fitted beyond that. The best habit is to put them, as soon as they are removed, into a bag taped to the back of the machine itself rather than into a toolbox, so you find them next time.

Diagnosing vibration after a move yourself

If your machine vibrates after a move, check these causes in order before calling a technician. First: were the transit bolts removed? Look at the back of the machine — this is by far the most common cause and costs nothing to fix. Second: are the feet level and stable? Push the machine at each of its four corners; if it rocks, the feet need adjusting, and this is the second most common cause. Third: is the floor itself level and solid? Wooden or uneven floors amplify any normal vibration. Fourth: is the load evenly distributed or bunched to one side? Run an empty spin cycle; if the vibration disappears the problem is load distribution rather than the machine. Fifth: if vibration persists with an empty drum, level feet and bolts removed, the problem is internal — springs, dampers or bearing — and needs a technician. That sequence resolves most cases at no cost.

Do dryers and dishwashers follow the same rules?

Partly. A tumble dryer is simpler because its drum runs on fixed bearings rather than a suspension, so most models need no transit bolts, but it still travels upright and needs its lint filter cleaned before the move and its condensate tank emptied on models that have one. A dishwasher raises a different issue: it connects to water and drainage, both of which must be closed, disconnected and drained completely, and water remaining in its sump and pump will leak during transit — a problem we see often because a dishwasher's base always retains some water that a normal cycle does not remove. After the last cycle, therefore, wipe the base by hand, remove and clean the filter, and leave the door open for a full day to dry. It too travels upright and secured.